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John Deere 35G Mini Excavator, 500 Hour Service Interval Tasks – Part 7
Written by Luis Montes Updated On March 06, 2026
In the last step-by-step guide, we explained how to replace the engine air filters on a John Deere 35G.
Although not inherently a 500 hour maintenance task, we’ll explain how to change the rubber tracks on this mini excavator.
On the Tekamo HD YouTube channel, you can watch Keith, a heavy-duty mechanic expert, do the task.
Tools You Will Need and Preliminary Steps
To change the John Deere 35G rubber tracks, you’ll need a long pry bar, a 19 mm open-end wrench (for the grease valve), and a grease gun (doesn’t matter if it’s manual, pneumatic, or electric).
The first thing you’ll need to do is lift the machine. Depending on your machine configuration, you can lift the excavator with the bucket and blade, or just with the bucket.
Either way, when pushing with the bucket, keep the angle between the boom and stick at 90-110 degrees.
If your John Deere 35G has a blade, turn the cabin 180 degrees (facing to the rear) and place the bucket as shown above. Start by lifting the front of the tracks with the blade, then push down the bucket to lift the tracks completely off the ground.
If you lack a blade, turn the cabin 90 degrees and push the bucket on the ground. Then repeat the process to work on the opposite track.
When you change the tracks with an operator's help, make sure they lift the safety lever whenever you approach the tracks. The safety lever or pilot shut-off lever is a device that can immediately cut off hydraulic pilot pressure to all pilot control valves, such as joysticks and pedals. It prevents injuries caused by accidental bumps to controls.
Remove the Old Track
To remove the track, you must first release the track tension, which moves the front idler inward and loosens the track. To do so, turn the track grease valve counterclockwise to relieve grease. The grease valve is in an access hole on the undercarriage frame.
To turn the valve and relieve the grease, you’ll need a 19 mm wrench.
As soon as you turn the valve, grease will come out, and the track will go down.
It’s not necessary to take out the grease valve. We did it anyway and kept it in a clean place to avoid contamination of the track grease adjuster system.
Because the 35G excavator we worked on was brand new, as soon as we removed the grease valve, the idler came in, and the track loosened. However, as these machines get older, dirt builds up inside the idler housing, so it won’t move much when relieving grease.
If you are working on a machine with a stuck idler, there are two ways you could force the idler in.
One is standing on the track and gently bouncing. The other is to place a pry bar, pipe, or piece of wood on the sprocket and have the operator turn the track backwards. As the pry bar (or whatever you have chosen) goes around the sprocket, it’ll create tension on the track and pull the idler in.
To pop off the track, slide the chisel/pry bar between the track and the undercarriage frame, next to the idler. There’s no need to slide it too far. Then push down your end of the bar to raise the track and tell the operator to travel the track forward. The track will walk off itself the idler. The bar might kick and hit you, so give yourself a little room.
Once the track pops off the idler, you can just pick it off from the sprocket.
Install the New Track
Excavator rubber tracks are directional, which means you must install them in a specific direction. The rubber tracks we installed had a V-shaped thread pattern that must point toward the center of the track as the excavator moves forward.
When installed correctly, the V thread pattern allows the track to force mud and loose soil out of the track. Otherwise, it’ll act as a paddle, scooping material and keeping it under the track.
Our article “Engineering and Application – A Deep Dive into Rubber Track Patterns” breaks down, in simple terms, how each rubber track pattern works.
Rubber tracks are heavy. Each track for the John Deere 35G weighs approximately 320 lbs. To avoid lifting the track as high, tell the operator to lower the machine a bit closer to the ground.
We recommend starting by lifting the track over the sprocket, then the carrier roller (the roller on top of the undercarriage), and lastly the idler.
Rubber tracks are stiff, especially new ones, so you probably won’t be able to install the track completely at first. When you get the track partially on, tell the operator to lift the machine again and fully place the track on top of the sprocket (over all the teeth that should engage with the track links).
To install the track on the idler, use the pry bar as you walk it off; this time, push up on your end of the bar to force the track onto the idler as the operator travels the track forward.
Once the track is fully on the sprocket, carrier roller, and idler, the last step is adjusting the tension.
If you removed the grease valve, clean it thoroughly before reinstalling it to avoid contamination with dirt and debris and ensure a good seal. Tighten the valve with the 19 mm wrench and add grease to adjust the tension.
We left about an inch of play between the center bottom roller and the track ridge (specifications recommend 0.4 to 0.6 inches of play).
Finally, run the track forward and backward, and recheck the track sag to make sure it has the proper tension. Always end the readjustment by going backward, because that way the sprocket “compresses” the track rather than stretching it. It’s a mechanical action and reaction principle.
To visualize better the above, picture the idler as a non-rotating component. As the sprocket turns forward, it’ll pull (stretching) the lower section of the track and push (compressing) the upper section. When the sprocket turns backward, it’ll push (compressing) the lower section of the track and pull (stretching) the upper section.
Wrap Up
Visit the Fortis HD blog for more posts on service intervals.
Be sure to check out the other posts we have in this series to cover every routine task for your John Deere 35G excavator: