Replace Skid Steer Tracks Without Other Heavy Equipment

Learn how to change rubber tracks on a Kubota SVL95 skid steer using only a few chisel bars. You can use the same technique for any make and model.

Rubber tracks are heavy. We recommend finding someone to help you operate the machine and move the track around.

By the way, is the Kubota SVL95 a skid steer or a compact track loader? We cover the topic in our article A Closer Look: Skid Steer vs Track Loader Face-Off, check it out.

Not in the mood for reading? Check our video version of this post:

We must keep the machine in the air. We’ll use the bucket to lift the front and a couple of wooden blocks for the back of the skid steer.

We used wooden blocks instead of a bottle jack because you can damage the jack with this task.

Make sure the blocks are wide enough for stability. Put the blocks underneath the back end of the skid steer, closer to the side where you’ll be replacing the tracks. Stack one block on top of the other until there’s a small clearance between the upper block and the unit bottom.

Next, flip the bucket up front so the cutting edge points downward. Push the bucket into the ground to lift the front of the skid steer. The back end will land on the blocks.

While pushing down, you’ll have to tilt the bucket a bit forward, or you’ll slide off the blocks in the back.

We prefer removing the grease valve instead of just loosening it off to release the tension on the track.

The Kubota SVL95 takes a 19mm (3/4 inches) wrench to release the valve. Other brands like Bobcat take a 9/16 or 3/8 inches.

If you can’t get a good angle with the wrench, a 19 mm deep socket will do the trick.

Stand on the track if you want to speed up the loosening process. The pressure will pull in the front idler, making more grease come out.

Depending on your location, the grease can get too cold, making it difficult to pull in the idler. Besides standing on the track, you can use a bar to tighten the track and help the idler pull in.

Put the bar on the inner side of the sprocket near the track and tell the operator to turn the track backward slowly. Run the bar all around the sprocket.

We prefer to get the track off the sprocket first, although you can also start by the front or rear idler.

Use the bar again like before, but this time, as the sprocket goes around (backward), pry the bar to put pressure on the track to get it off. You might need to do this more than once to get the track completely off the sprocket. You can also do the same on the rear idler.

Keep prying on the sprocket and the rear idler until the track comes off.

Consider having someone to help you or an extra piece of equipment. The tracks are quite heavy (600 lbs each) for one person to do the task.

The steps to install the new track without using another machine are:

• Put the new track close to the machine.
• Lower the machine onto the ground.
• Lift the track and put it as much as you can on the sprocket (when you lift the machine again, it’ll take the track up with it).

Besides their weight, new tracks can be hard to get on the sprocket because they are stiff and even stiffer in cold weather. If you can’t access another machine, brute force is the only way. We strongly recommend having someone to help you.

Tell the operator to lift the machine after putting the track on the sprocket.

Once the machine is high enough, push the track to get it further on the sprocket and the front idler. To pop the track in the rear idler, use a combination of prying and kicks. Eventually, the track will pop down.

Pry and push the track on the sprocket and the front idler until the track’s links engage with the sprocket teeth. Otherwise, you’ll never install the track.

Once the track is properly on the sprocket, we prefer to get it on the front wheel first and then on the rear idler. Whatever is easier for you.

In our case, to get the bottom of the track in the rear idler, we had to lift the machine a bit higher and travel the track backward to move the slack at the top until it was near the rear idler. Both things gave us more room to pry the track and pop it in place.

Clean up the grease valve and the end of the grease gun to prevent dust or dirt from entering the system.

Make sure to align the valve properly and thread it by hand. If the valve stops right away, it means you are cross threaded. Don’t cross thread the valve, or you’ll damage the track adjuster. Finish fastening the valve with the 19mm wrench.

Time to pump grease into the nipple.

Depending on your equipment, the location of the grease valve varies. Sometimes, it’s in an access hole on the front roller guard, other times at the back of the undercarriage. The variation even affects the type of adjuster. While most are hydraulic, some Cat skid steers have mechanical adjusters.

Initially, we pulled in the front idler to loose the track. Now, we’ll push it out by pumping grease into the adjuster. Pump grease until there’s no more slack on the bottom and the top doesn’t have much sag. Refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the recommended tightness and the top and bottom sag measurements.

If the grease leaks out between the grease valve and the gun, then the end of your gun is worn out, the grease nipple has had damage, or both.

Tell the operator to travel the track forward or backward for 30 seconds and recheck the tension.

Finish by putting back the cover plate of the grease valve access hole and lowering the machine.